Saturday, March 12, 2011


Lay the proud usurpers low!
Tyrants fall in every foe!
Liberty's in every blow!

Stirling

I took the 8am train out of Helmsdale again with the purpose of a day trip to Stirling. I changed trains in Inverness and again in Perth, to arrive in Stirling at 1:15pm. I feel I have adequately experienced and conquered the Scottish rail system. In Scotland everything closes at 5pm, so I didn't have a great deal of time to sightsee, and all on foot too. My first goal was Stirling castle, which is thankfully only a few minutes walk from the rail station.



A large group of buoyant Frenchmen who were obnoxiously loud and rather annoying entered the castle at the same time. It did not endear me to the French at all.


Stirling has a great view, but it was very cloudy and hard to get good pictures.


My impression of Stirling was that it is mostly reconstruction and very little origional building. The Castle is also currently under construction, so most of the rooms were empty and there were parts blocked off. Above is the Castle Chapel.


There was a modern art display of tapestry in one room.


The Great Hall would make an excellent dance hall. Can you imagine??

See the differences in stonework.


The guardhouse kitchen- that fireplace must have been fifteen feet across. Watch your step!

And for dinner we have plastic hog's head with an acrylic glaze! Oh boy. The great kitchen was the only room that had plastic figures and other museumish replicas.


There were all sorts of nooks and crannies.

Day's End

After Stirling Castle it was too late to see the Wallace Monument which is apparently an hour's walk from there, so I set out to see the Holy Rude churchyard and Cambuskenneth Abbey. The cemetery was pretty neat:

A Victorian monument to Scottish Covenanter Women.

A winged soul tombstone- they sure don't have these in Nebraska.

The Abbey was closed, which I expected, but it was also fenced and locked, which I didn't expect. I suppose I could have climbed the gate, but I was a bit tired at that point. So I took pictures from afar.

You can't tell, but it was raining. The Abby was beautiful and worth visiting, especially if you can come when it's open.

This is as close as I got to the Wallace monument. It's that speck in the distance.

So finally, tired and cold, I treated my self to a romantic dinner alone. It was one of those times I wish I was married. Thinking positively, though, if I was married I would probably not have been able to travel to Scotland.



So, all in all, I viewed the castle despite the invasion of the French; saw the Abbey albeit in the rain; and defiantly ate dinner. The train out of Stirling left at 8pm, and the W's very kindly picked me up in Inverness, so we all got home at 1am.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

When winds frae off Ben Lomond blaw, An' bar the doors wi' drivin' snaw


While winds frae aff Ben-Lomond blaw,
An' bar the doors wi' driving snaw,
An' hing us owre the ingle,
I set me down to pass the time,
An' spin a verse or twa o' rhyme,
In hamely, westlin jingle.

-Robert Burns
 
I took the train to Inverness yesterday. Why, you ask? I had a train ticket to use, and pretty much all trains lead to Inverness. Even that is a 2 1/2 hour trip one-way. Train travel may be smarter in some aspects, but it's still very limiting. So I took the 8:01 out of Helmsdale and arrived in Inverness around 11:45(there were delays because it snowed) and stayed all day to take the 5:54 out of Inverness and get home at 8:30. You would hope that all this walking would toughen me up, but it still just wears me out.
 

I visited Tomnahurich Cemetery first, since the weather was iffy. It had snowed during the night and everything was wet and squishy. The cemetery is very large but not very old. There were lots of Victorian era Celtic style crosses. The grounds are formed around a high hill, and there are paths up to the top that would make for a very nice walk in the summer.

 
And then I went shopping. It's so hard to find anything that smacks of Scotland for a reasonable price, and I am trying to find presents for family at least. It's killing me! Inverness itself is not very large: it's smaller than Omaha, if that means anything to you. So I walked hither and yon and bought a few presents, and it snowed and blew and sleeted.
 
I stopped in the Cathedral of St. Andrew(be shocked: I would have gone in the Presbyterian Church, which is much older, but they keep it locked) which is a Victorian age building and what the Reformers would have called "popish." Pretty, but not quite the type of building I would want to worship in.
 
 
I was glad to rest and warm up a bit.
 

Then I said goodbye to the warm popish church and headed out towards the train station with a stop at the afore-mentioned Inverness Museum(mainly because you have to pay a pence to enter the "water closet" at the station, and I'm not one to spend money loosely) where you can see fascinating things like:


A great Auk egg.

And then I went home and went to bed.

Monuments


The Helmsdale monument commemorating the Highland Clearances, still remembered today as the "Cruel Clearances."

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Road Trip

We started out as early as we possibly could, taking the A9 down to Inverness and west from there. However, about five minutes out we ran into a snag in our plans. An accident on the A9(Apparently known as the Road of Death) completely blocked traffic both ways. Now, there's no other road option for travel other than the A9. You literally cannot get anywhere unless you are on the A9, and since there was already a long line of traffic build up it was going to take hours to clear the accident. Our only option was to turn around and take a country road that would loop around and take us out farther up the road, and hope it would come out above the accident.

So we took this little one-lane road through the most beautiful backwoods hill country. It was amazingly bumpy and a lot of fun. The drivers here don't drive: they hurtle. Seriously. The cars are tiny, the roads are small and curvy, but people drive like there's no tomorrow. There are also a lot of one lane roads, so I can understand why there would be frequent accidents.

Anyway, the detour while long, was beautiful.  It's hard to take good pictures through a car window, though, so you'll just have to imagine it.


The object of our quest, Eilean Donan Castle on the western coast of Scotland. The roads from the east coast to the west coast are not what you would call direct, so with the detour the trip took us about 3 1/2 hours one way. Since this is the tourist off-season there aren't many castles open to visitors. Eilean is one of the few that remain open year-round. Unfortunately no photography was allowed inside.

The Marchioness wore Linen to Eilean Donan.


After lunch, the tour, and a quick stop at the gift shop, we drove to the Isle of Skye just to say we'd been there. And on the drive home we passed the famous Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle.


Anyone see Nessie? It was perfect weather for a sighting, and I'm perfectly convinced that Nessie is real.


Obviously, it was getting late by than. We ended the day by eating at a Asian buffet in Inverness, and we still had a two hour drive home after that.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Church Tradition: a Sunday Post


This past Sunday following the service up in Thurso Rev. MacL and Mr. W were discussing various interesting situations that come from having small congregations, especially in very old churches.

Understand that many of the churches up in the isolated north seem to be made up of under a dozen attendees, mostly elderly people(think 70+ years). So picture this: an old stone church building with a nice long center aisle with the minister standing in the pulpit up in the front, and the entire congregation sitting in the very back.


Now, most churchgoers are guilty of sitting in the very same pew week after week, and that's simply what these people were doing. For the last two hundred years their respective families had sat in those particular pews, which happened to be in the very back. And the remaining parishioners absolutely refused to sit anywhere else, even when the church size dwindled and the preacher was so far away from the congregation that his face was unrecognizable.


One minister tried to force his flock to the front by putting up a curtain right through the middle of the church, so the pulpit couldn't be seen from the back of the building. Come Sunday he couldn't see a single one of his parishioners- they were all behind the curtain. Another Reverend gave up and simply preached from the center pew. This just goes to show how hard it is to break tradition.


Note: the photos are from our quick stop at St. Magnus.